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Jun. 2008



Aug. 2007



Oct 2007
Cover Story

It was love at first sight. Way back in 1998, soon after our family moved to Romania, we were invited on a fishing trip to the Danube Delta. I had never heard of the area before and presumed that it was like any other nature reserve. What I saw when I got there after a three-hour drive from Bucharest, the capital of Romania, was an unforgettable sight. As far as the eye could see it was an expanse of lakes, channels and reed-beds teeming with thousands of birds.

A World Heritage Site and a 'Man made Biosphere Reserve', the Delta on the eastern border of Romania is the place where the Danube river ends its journey through Europe and meets the Black sea. Along with the water millions of tonnes of silt comes which forms this unique landscape. Spread over 4,500 square kilometers, the Delta is home to over 300 species of birds and supports a number of unique eco-systems.

Summer in Paradise Starting in May each year, millions of birds migrate to the Delta from all over the world to spend the summer in its pristine environment as well as breed in the numerous colonies. Another attraction is the huge quantities of fish that live and reside in the waters of the Delta. The breeding season is normally over by September and the young birds are big enough to fly back to their wintering grounds in Africa and Asia. It is time now for the ducks and geese that come in from the harsher climates of Siberia to spend the winter here. The best way to get around the Delta is by boat. This enables the visitor to access the breeding colonies and squeeze through the narrow channels that lead to the big lakes. Once inside the colonies, almost everywhere you look there are nesting birds. Each tree supports a number of residents in mixed colonies. I was surprised to see cormorants, spoonbills, egrets and herons nesting on the same tree, akin to a high-rise apartment building with multiple residents.
Of the many bird species in the Delta, the most commonly seen are white pelicans, cormorants, pygmy cormorants, spoonbills, grebes, herons, egrets, gulls, terns, ibis, grebes, kingfishers, rollers, bee-eaters, coots and moor-hens. The majestic white-tailed fishing eagle can also be occasionally sighted. You need not be a trained ornithologist to enjoy the birds of the Delta. The sheer beauty of the environment, the lush reed-beds and the floating forests is a sight to remember.
Of all the birds in the Delta, the pelicans are undoubtedly the most fascinating. Over a 100,000 pairs breed in the summer and they can be seen in large numbers feeding in the lakes and estuaries. I love watching a group of pelicans feed and exhibit perfect teamwork. There is an amazing bond between the pelicans and cormorants who work together to optimize time and space. The cormorants, who are skilled divers, go down deep into the water and force the fish upwards. The pelicans are then able to catch them without much effort. The reward the pelicans are unruly diners and the cormorants feast on the fish that drop from their bills. I could spend an entire month exploring the Delta. Experienced guides and naturalists know the best spots. Catch a Fish For fishing enthusiasts, the Delta is a great destination. Almost throughout the year, except the breeding season, one can fish here. Carp, pike and catfish offer the best fight whereas perch, shad and bream are plentiful. Experienced anglers from all over the world are in the Delta in search of excitement and challenge. Even as an amateur I do not do too badly!
Historically and culturally, the Delta is equally rich. It was ruled over time by Romans, Macedonians, Turks and Tatars. Each of them has left behind a piece of history and recent excavations are now an added attraction. The lush vineyards in the regions which specialize in a mild white wine called 'Aligote', were planted by the Romans who spent many decades in the area fighting with the barbarians across the river. There are a number of historical ruins that represent their era and lifestyle.

In the more recent past, the Delta has become home to a unique group of people called the 'Lipovans'. The Lipovans migrated to the Delta about a century ago to escape persecution from the Russian Czars who did not approve of their orthodox Christian beliefs. The Lipovans set up home in the Delta and are today the most accomplished fishing community in the region. Although the community has integrated with the locals in many ways, they still preserve their traditions which include the distilling of potent local vodka. A trip to a Lipovan village is a unique experience. I was lucky enough to be invited to a special Delta fish soup lunch. Fresh fish are slowly cooked in a large metal cauldron and served with a special garlic sauce called 'Muzdei'.
Culinary skills of the Delta are not restricted to the Lipovans alone. The area is home to some famous and ancient monasteries. The most visited are Saon and Cocos. I spent an afternoon in Saon. Located on the water-front it is the oldest Christian orthodox monastery in the area and is home to about 40 nuns. The nuns grow their own organic food which includes delicious home-made wines. A traditional Romanian lunch served by the nuns in their refractory, painted with religious murals, is an unforgettable experience. We also took home a couple of bottles of fresh honey from the organic farm.
The Danube Delta is spectacular and fascinating. It is the youngest land in Europe, because of the constant deposit of fresh silt, and is home to the continent's oldest mountains. For the nature lover, the artist and the writer, the serene beauty and the bird watching is a lifetime experience. And, for those, who enjoy peaceful and pristine environments this has to be the obvious choice. It far surpasses your expectations. I try to spend every holiday there. You too will become an addict!

 

 

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