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Aug. 2007



Oct 2007
Oct 2008
  TRIDINAD MY HOMELAND

 

I was born in Hindustan, a small village in south Trinidad, just a few miles from Barrackpore, Fyzabad and Golconda. Many villages were named after places in India from where our forefathers came to work in the cane fields as indentured labourers. My father had a 250 acres sugar cane farm and owned a sugar mill which he operated for two years before closing it due to technical problems. Growing up in the farm was perhaps one of the most enjoyable periods in my life. There is a small mud volcano, named 'Devil's Woodyard', behind the sugar farm. As kids, we would play among the bubbling mounds and with guidance from the elders would wrap eggs in a cloth and place them in the small mouth of the mounds. In a few minutes we had boiled eggs! Devil's Woodyard is now a tourist attraction, but many years ago it was our personal volcano!
With the emancipation of slavery in 1834 the Africans left the cane fields in droves creating a labour shortage that needed immediate attention. On May 30th 1845 the first shipment of Indians arrived in Trinidad in the now famous ship, Fatel Razak, which made the couple of months long journey over the Indian Ocean, passing the Cape of Good Hope heading north over the Atlantic to arrive in Trinidad. May 30th is now a National holiday in Trinidad & Tobago in remembrance of that eventful arrival of Indians to the 'New World'.
The population is diverse and comprises about 45% of African origin, 45% of Indian and a sprinkling of Europeans, Chinese, Syrians and others. Overall life is harmonious except during elections when tensions may arise. The twin island state of Trinidad & Tobago is the most southerly island in the Caribbean, situated 10 degrees north, just seven miles off the coast of Venezuela from where pours the mighty Orinoco River, dumping sediments into the sheltered west coast of Trinidad. Tropical in climate and vegetation Trinidad is 1,600 square miles with a population of 1.2 million. Just enough to fit into a small part of Delhi or Mumbai or Kolkata.
The small size has not deterred its ambition for playing on the world stage. Trinidad, Brian Lara's country, was the smallest nation ever to reach a World Football final. We have had two Miss Universe and two Miss World, perhaps the most per capita in the world! Sir Vidia Naipaul, a Nobel Laureate is Trinidadian. Trinidad is also known to have the greatest street party with two days of carnival in February each year.
The Bustling sugar cane belt I live in Central Trinidad, in the sugar cane belt. Beautiful country side that changes with the seasons. Miles of cane fields on undulating lands. The canes were ready for harvesting by December when white plumes grace the cane fields with their flowers. Seas of white pleases the eyes. Harvest time awakens all the farmers, cane cutters, field workers, tractor drivers and mill workers. Life returns to the many villages that depend on the sugar cane harvest. The shop keepers look forward to a bustling trade and the settlement of credit advanced during the growing period. The village bars, popularly referred to as 'rum shops', provide the theatre for budding philosophers. Such a rhythm of life, centuries old, came to an abrupt unceremonious end two years ago when Government closed the sugar industry. The lands are now vacant with a variety of grass competing for dominance. I do hope that with the escalating prices of food, the lands will once again become productive. Our economy is predominantly energy based…. oil and gas. Trinidad's fortunes ride on energy prices and the recent boom period has come to an end with oil prices now falling below $40 per barrel.
Despite the closure of the sugar industry, I have ventured into a small jiggery-cum-sugar factory. So I still have the luxury of enjoying harvest with all the activities, sights and aroma of the cane fields. Next year I will be in full production. Port of Spain, the capital city, is situated in the North West of the island. The city's down town is beautiful. The main attraction remains the colonial houses scattered around the city. 'Gingerbread house' and 'Stollmyer's castle' are two examples. Twenty two miles from the Capital is the premier beach in Trinidad, Maracas Bay. To reach Maracas we must take the scenic drive over the Northern Range. The rugged coast line is most notable. The beach is typical Caribbean and the back drop of un-spoilt forested mountains rising 3,000 ft., is spectacular.
Driving on the North/South highway about sixteen miles from Port of Spain is the bustling town of Chaguanas. On Saturday, market day, the town is transformed into a thriving bazaar, with hawkers spilling onto the street blocking traffic with honking horns. Not unlike a scene in India. “A House for Mr. Biswas”, a novel written by Sir Vidia Naipaul, was set in Chaguanas. The famous 'Lion House' still exists and is preserved as a historical building. The design is typically Indian.
Temple in the Sea A few miles south of Chaguanas, driving through once lush sugar cane fields, is the village of Caripichiama. There is a large newly built Dattatreya temple graced with a 85 ft Hanuman Statue. The compound is peaceful and a wonderful place to enjoy and relax. A further two miles to the coast is an interesting temple in the sea. The original temple was built by one person- Siewdass Sadhoo. Stone by stone he built the causeway and then constructed the temple in the sea. His determination resulted from the continued harassment by the colonial authorities when he constructed previous temples on land belonging to the State. The temples were demolished. He then decided to build in the sea. The original temple stood for years and was a symbol of determination of our forefathers against colonial repression. Trinidad is a land of temples, mosques and churches. Often they can be found side by side in villages and towns. The east coast of the Island greets the wide Atlantic Ocean. At Mayaro on the south-east, the beaches stretch for miles. The main desire of the technicians who came from India recently to assist with the jaggery plant, was to see the sea. Khan Sahib and Prem Chand came from UP and perhaps never saw the sea. They were thrilled at the sight and the strong refreshing sea breeze. During that visit we stayed a long time enjoying the environment and the confluence of sea and sand. Trinidad is both a bustling and a soothing island destination. It welcomes tourists throughout the year. I recommend at least two weeks to soak in the culture and have your fill of the beaches.

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