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Taiwan The little Leaf in Water
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by Sunayna T.
Until now Taiwan for me was all about an economically developed nation with its “Made in Taiwan” markings across various industrial products. Throughout my flight journey, I visualised myself roaming around a concre te jungle and perhaps visiting the night markets and restaurants. Frankly, I was a little uncertain about the “tourism attractions” in Taiwan. The September rain was in full force, as I stepped out of Taipei's Chiang Kai Shek International Airport (CKS).
On route to Taipei, I first stopped by the National Palace Museum (NPM). The NPM is home to ancient Chinese artefacts and some of the rarest pieces of artwork in Chinese history. Having missed the English guided tour, I settled for some self exploration. My sleep deprived eyes brightened instantaneously, as I made my way through the museum. Going by the total number of objects (six lacs plus) on display, it must have taken Chiang Kai Shek meticulous planning to bring them to Taiwan when the Kuomintan fled Mainland  China.
Of all the different sections, I was most fascinated by the master pieces of jade. One particular artefact that caught my attention was the “Jadeite Cabbage with Insects”. This intricate artwork resembling a bokchoy cabbage with the locust and katydid on the leaves was believed to be a dowry gift from Kuang-hsü Emperor to his consort Chin. The gift symbolizes her purity and offer blessings for bearing many children.
The NPM was just the beginning. All preconceived notions, I had about Taiwan, were about to change. Over the next few days, I was to explore a whole new facet of this country that mirrors China in many ways yet asserts its own individuality. China has never acknowledged Taiwan's status as a free and independent nation. This ongoing standoff between them since decades has more than often resulted in the impending threat of war. Despite this situation, Taiwan's visitor arrivals have been on an increase. 
Hualien, also known as the ‘Stone Town’, is Taiwan's biggest producer of marble and jade. It's your best bet to buy jade and other semi–precious souvenirs from here at discounted prices. Every visitor to this region has a ‘must see‘ tourist spot in his agenda – The Taroko Gorge. At the entrance to the gorge stands the skillfully carved architectural structure that symbolizes the start of the Central Cross-Island Highway.
Reading the menu card at a local restaurant that night, some facts became very clear. When it comes to food, Taiwanese are known to savour every movable creature with equal delight. On hearing this most vegetarian souls would cringe in disgust. Howeve r, this should not deter them from visiting Taiwan. Let's not forget that Indians live here in large numbers. So, naturally Indian restaurants are present. Moreover, specialty Buddhist restaurants catering to Buddhist vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike can be found across the country.
I wearily dragged myself out of bed early next morning for my trip to Hualien. A three hour journey by train, Hualien is located on the East Coast of Taiwan bordering the Pacific Ocean. It's cheaper to travel during weekdays on the comfortable air-conditioned chair-car train. Like in the airlines, the luggage compartments are placed over head, while seats are akin to business class with extra legroom. To my surprise, the train comes equipped with an automatic tea/ coffee vending machine. If you have problems understanding the instructions, traditionally dressedattendants are always around to assist you.
Hualien, also known as the ‘Stone Town’ is Taiwan's biggest producer ofmarble and jade. It's your best bet to buy jade and other semi-precious souvenirs from here at discounted prices. Every visitor to this region has a ‘must see’ tourist spot in his agenda – The Taroko Gorge. At the entrance to the gorge stands the skillfully carved architectural structure that symbolizes the start of the Central Cross-Island Highway. This highway  connects Hualien in the East to Taichung in the West. The KMT government led by Chiang Kei Shek built this highway for military purposes soon after they fled to Taiwan. The Eternal Spring Shrine is a commemoration of all those who gave their lives to the building of the highway.
Not knowing what to expect, I made my way to the Gorge. What I then saw left me agape. Before me stood a huge landscape of marble that originated over 230 million years ago as a result of continuous geotectonic movements. The gorge was formed by the Liwu River carving its way through these marble mountains. These steep spectacular canyons are adorned with waterfalls and overhung with verdant vegetation. In some places as a result of the tectonic movement, the stone walls of the valley stand so close that they allow only a thin line of sunlight through. Taroko's narrow canyons and rock formations offer much more geological diversity than the Grand Canyon in the United States thus making it unique in itself.
This is Taiwan's first theme park focusing on marine ecology. The place is a real treat for kids who will find it both educative and a fun.The Discovery Island Aquarium is touted as the most advanced concept in aqua rium designing. Children will love watching the sea-lion, the dolphins and other interesting underwater creatures in this zone. I watched visitors suddenly turn quiet as they headed to the crystal castle on the cable car. It wasn't until I sat in there did I realize the reason. As the car moved upwards the castle, the view of the Pacific got more apparent. I sat mesmerized gazing at the expanse of the Ocean.
On display at the Hualien community centre are the cultural arts, crafts and artefacts of the Ami tribe. Post dinner, I was lucky to attend a lively Ami dance performance characterized by drum beats, bamboo dance and dramatic costumes. Shopping for jade souvenirs here is an absolute delight. You are spoilt for choice with each piece more exquisite than the other. They offer a wide variety ranging from simple pendants or earring to heavier sets depending on the work done. If you're looking to take back souvenirs for friends, family or even colleagues then fancy mobile accessories, jade keychains and a host of others are your best bet.
The next morning, the view of the Pacific Ocean from the Hualien Ocean Park was simply magnificent. This is Taiwan's first theme park focusing on marine ecology. The place is a real treat for kids who will find it both educative and a fun. The Discovery Island Aquarium is touted as the most advanced concept in aquarium designing. Children will love watching the sea-lion, the dolphins and other interesting underwater creatures in this zone. I watched visitors suddenly turn quiet as they headed to the Crystal castle on the cable car. It wasn't until I sat in there did I realize the reason. As the car moved upwards the castle, the view of the Pacific got more apparent. I sat mesmerized gazing at the expanse of the Ocean. It's said that setting sail from here, you'd probably reach west coast of US in a few days. Dangerous proposition, I reckon…
I was scheduled to reach Taichung the same evening. Since going by rail or road was not feasible, I had to fly back to Taipei and proceed further. The journey from Hualien to Taipei was all of just 45 minutes. Domestic flights in Taiwan are dirt cheap. Along the road to Taichung, I noticed pretty young ladies seated in glass cubicles. I recognized them as the ‘Betel nut lady’. Prior to my departure a colleague of mine had told me to catch a glimpse of these scantily clad beautiful women. As it turns out the ‘Betel nut lady’; is an institution known for providing visiting customers paan and a friendly conversation. There's no room for anything physical since all this happens behind glass on the road in full view of public.
Taichung, the third largest city of Taiwan is the 'twin' of Taipei city. Situated just about 20 kilometers from the coast and 100 kilometers south of Taipei, it's your best transit point to visit the Sun Moon Lake. O riginally this was the largest fresh water lake in Taiwan. As the northern end of the lake is shaped like the sun and the southern half like a sickle moon, the lake then came to be known as the Sun Moon Lake.
My visit coincided with the annual sun moon lake festival held on the 8th month of the Chinese lunar calendar every year. Standing in the middle of the lake and surrounded by over twenty thousand swimmers was something I hadn't quite expected to see in Taiwan. The excitement surrounding this event draws media and participants from around the world. Overlooking the lake is the house turned museum of former Taiwanese leader Chiang Kai Shek. Adjacent to the house is the premier Lalu Spa resort. This resort offers both Eastern & Western restorative treatments using only the best curatives from nature. Unwind yourself at the spa only “If” you have deep pockets.
On my last night in Taiwan, I visited Hsimenting, Taipei city's favourite night market with the youngsters. You know you're in a night market when the aromas of popular Taiwanese snacks waft through the air when brightly lit neon lights keep you awake and alert and finally when the narrow alleys of the district display items at great bargains. The place had an assortment of coffee shops, tattoo parlours, sandwich joints, bars, bowling alley, snack joints, entertainment and lastly hair saloons. It's a common sight in Taiwan to see locals enter hair saloons with poker straight hair and leave with a cut, perm or even coloured inhues of gold, blonde, red and brown. The open air snack joints in particular offer some mind- boggling delicacies as well as some mouth–watering desserts. Despite the rain the place was bustling with energy. By the time I was through with my eating and shopping, the moment had come to head back to the hotel. It was time to bid adieu to Taiwan.
On the eve of my departure I feel content of having sailed through this grueling itinerary. Taiwan's excellent transportation system ensured that I soaked in the beautiful sights an d sounds within these four days. Taiwan is a destination for all those looking for a relaxed and a laid back holiday.
If given a chance to stay back, I would definitely want to take a dip in the hot-springs, visit the Penghu islands, visit areas inhabited by aboriginal tribes, explore Taiwan's art scene, simply enjoy the varied natural landscapes and the list can go on and on. Aptly named “llha Formosa” (Beautiful Island), this little leaf shaped island draws you into its surroundings with an unforgettable experience that would make you want to come back to Taiwan again. |
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